Trim fennel, cut bulbs in half and wash well. Cut into thick chunks. Put fennel in a medium-sized frying pan with oil, wine, a couple of pinches of sea salt and ground black pepper. To get things moving, cover and set over a medium heat to start, then turn heat to low (if too high the fennel will scorch). Cook for 12-15 minutes, until forktender (stir halfway through cooking and add a little water if it looks dry). Turn off heat and stir in half the chervil.
Poach eggs in a pan of simmering water, to which you have added the vinegar, and cook until done to your liking. Transfer to a bowl of warm water using a slotted spoon.
Toast bread and arrange on plates. Stack with fennel then salmon. Using a slotted spoon, remove poached eggs one at a time from water, putting a piece of paper towel underneath. If tatty, trim them with a large round cookie cutter. Place an egg on each toast stack and season.
Heat butter in a small frying pan over medium-high heat until it foams and is a pale brown colour. Pour in the lemon juice. It will hiss and steam, so be prepared for that. Let it steam for about 1 minute, then spoon some over the top of each egg stack. Garnish with remaining chervil and serve immediately.
From Taste magazine, July 2010.